The Distant Dream

On the road from Shanghai to Le Marche

THE CANNONBALL RUN

How do you get from the Iranian – Turkish border to Venice in 10 days overland?

Well let me tell you; first you take a bus for 24 hours from Van to Istanbul and cry wishing you could stop at all the beautiful places along the way (Cappadoccia looks INCREDIBLE) then spend 2 days in Istanbul and cry wishing you could spend more time because it totally rocks – a cosmopolitan mix of Asia and Europe full harleys, hummers, incredibly stylish people, beautiful churches and mosques, some insane jewels and a street with over 60 different musical instrument stores that made me weak in the knees; then you board the bus for Plovdiv in Bulgaria where you spend one night and half a day looking at charming churches, roman amphitheatre ruins and eating poutine like dishes and delicious red wines; and then you board the overnight train to the last town before the Romanian border, you then pick a driver who will help you to the border + formalities after which you walk to the gas station where the guys drive you to the town where a mini-bus can take you to Bucharest after which 2 guys you meet on the bus who speak decent french and spanish help you navigate the subway to the train station where you catch the first train to Bran where you get accosted at the station by people wanting you to stay at their house-hotel and then go look at Dracula’s castle (preferably not on halloween as we did because it is totally full of people and not at all pleasant); from where you take another overnight train (on which you have to lock the doors at all times b-c it is apparently full of gypsy thieves according to the ticket checker – someone defintely did try to get into our cabin) to Budapest where you marvel at a majestic and gracious city that has defintiely re-found itslef (or lost itself depending on who you are speaking to) since Soviet times. It is also in Budapest where you stop and think and realize that you are squarely and surely back in the european tourist world with American tour bus groups galore. You quickly escape and try to find the “real” budapest where you run into Chinese tour groups (complete with the CITS flags for those of you out there who really know Chinese tour groups) and then you run back to your hotel before setting off the next day for Bratislava for a romantic night and then you take the train to Vienna and transfer to the Vienna-Venice inter-city train which pulls into Venezia Santa Lucia at 10:00 PM. You spend more money in a week than you had in 2 months but you are there in time just to grab a pizza at a closing restaurant and enjoy it with friends. The next morning you get up and go straight to Marco Polo’s house where you get your picture taken and have truly and finally MADE IT!!!!

November 25, 2005 | Permalink | Comments (0)

IRAN IRAN IRAN

With all the press these days about Iran, I have a news flash for you; like countries such as the United States and Italy which both have terrible governments (for different reasons albeit) they also have very nice people. In Iran it is the same but perhaps the people are even nicer on average. What a stunningly beautiful country, with incredible food and wonderful, hospitable people.

Tehran is not a land full of crazies protesting and burning things every day; it is in fact a very NORMAL city. People go to work, they go to school, they go to the super market and to museums and shop for shoes and even lingerie. Below the chadoor, which perhaps half the women in Tehran wear with the other half opting for a scarf and long manteaux,  there are some pretty funky clothes going on. The young guys are remarkably italian with an eye to style and an abundance of gel that scared me (not nearly as bad as Istanbul however) and it is a place I would like to live. The pollution is quite bad but not as bad as some parts of China (home to 16 of the 20 most polluted cities on earth) and arguably much more interesting.

Img_6351 We also went to the cities of Mashad where we visited the shrine of the Imam which must be seen to be believed, and to the city of Esfehan, perhaps the most enchanting and lovely I have ever seen in my whole life; to Persepolis, the ancient ritual capital of the Iranian empire during the time of Darius around 400 BC; to Shiraz, where the young people hang out on friday nights reciting poetry at the tomb of Hafez, one of the three national poets, drinking tea and smoking qaylans with apple flavoured tobacco. Bliss!!!Img_6298

We were hosted in Esfehan (and tehran for that matter) by Iranian friends of my parents, and they were some of the most wonderful days I have ever spent. Having incredibly kind and cultured friends with whom to walk the streets make a difference wherever you are but if happen to have that chance in a place like Esfehan, where history and culture and beauty are to be found in every nook and cranny is something else. From the friday mosque to labrynthine markets to the central square to the Armenian quarter with its incredible church (and bakeries) we literrally were overwhlemed by it. One of our hosts had not been back ot Esfehan since before the revolution and she brought a whole other element to the experience.

Not just a museum city like Khiva, we went to craftsmen shops were they have been working for hundreds of years and we went to see Zurkhaneh, a kind of iranian native martial art/sport, in a traditional yet thriving local sports club. Full of song and ritual and history, there was a wealth of culture and continuity displayed that I have rarely seen. I will not even start on the food because I wont stop. For those of you who have experienced the eggplants at Bao Luo, I crave them no longer because there is something infinitely better on offer in Esfehan beside the Sheik Lotfallah mosque!!!Img_6152

All in all, Iran was the highlight of the trip and I would encourange any and all who can get a visa to go to GO and spend as much time as possible.   

November 25, 2005 | Permalink | Comments (0)

KIMCHI IN CENTRAL ASIA

The Central Asıan republıcs are an ethnıc mısh mash, wıth Kazakhstan havıng over 100 dıfferent ethnıc groups lıvıng wıthın ıts borders. Not only do sızeable populatıons of all 5 of the republıcs lıve ın the neıghbourıng republıcs due to Stalın´s somewhat arbıtrary border desıgnatıon ın the 1920’s, but ıt ıs also much more complıcated wıth one of the by-products beıng the avaılabılıty of kıller Korean Kımchı ın markets throughout Central Asıa.

Stalın was a bıt of a paranoıd man and he dıd not trust the ethnıc germans lıvıng wıthın the sovıet unıon western borders nor dıd he trust the ethnıc koreans lıvıng on the eastern borders so he sent them to the mıddle of hıs vast empıre. To thıs day the descendants of these forced settlers are a fıxture of markets accross central asıa and they make theır natıonal delıcacıes ıncredıble well and don´t seem to be goıng anywhere. The Germans, ın contrast, have mostly skıpped town and re-settled ın theır orıgınal lands and ın Germany.   

November 25, 2005 | Permalink | Comments (0)

COUNTER-STRIKE

From Chengdu to the city of Van ın Eastern Turkey (where I stopped going to internet cafes), there has been one constant ın the ınternet cafes, kıds play a very vıolent game called counter strıke (except for ın Iran where I saw no young kids in internet cafes). It appears to be a counter terrorısm thıng wıth a lot of kıllıng where you play and other people on other computers can be part of the game as well, and from the popularıty of ıt, ıt looks lıke ıts creators should be makıng some bıg money. I thought ıt was pretty bad that kıds were playıng such vıolent games (I sound old) but then when I saw 7 year old boys watchıng hard-core porn ın Dushanbe I fıgured counter strıke mıght not be so bad. Normally I crıtıcıze Chına for tryıng to control content on the ınternet, but as well as blockıng Tıbet sıtes they also do try to block porn whıch may not be bad because there are defınıtely thıngs that 7 year old kıds should not watch.

The other constants ın the cafes ıs they always play the song Hotel Calıfornıa. Lıvıng ın Chına Celıne Dıon topped my lıst of musıcıans who should never exısted maınly because of the constant presence of the Tıtanıc soundtrack but thıs song offıcıally takes the cake.

November 25, 2005 | Permalink | Comments (0)

GROWING COTTON IN THE DESERT - A SOVIET PLAN

Some of you will have heard about the Aral sea. 50 years ago it was the 4th largest freshwater lake in the world; then stalin and his bozos decided that it would be a smart idea to become self-sufficient in cotton b-c they could not buy it from capitalist west; and truly the biggest bozo of them all decided it would be a good idea to grow it in the middle of a desert, namely in the heart of central asia. While oasis had existed from time immemorial, they found a way to coexist with the larger desert around. The soviets would have none of that; they diverted the two main rivers that fed the Aral and decided to grow the cotton – one of the most water intensive crops around – in the desert. In 50 years the aral sea is one third the size, the existing water is so polluted with pesticides from the cotton plantations that no fish can survive and the inhabitants of the region, the Karakalpaks, who remain have major health problems.

Cotton became the mainstay of the uzbek economy – it is now the worlds largest producer – so no one thought to mention that the sea was shrinking. Economy took front seat to environment, and no one said a word b-c Moscow had sent down directives of what needed to be done. Absolutely ridiculous and the secrecy sounds a bit like China with its current explosion and benzene pollution on the Songhua river

Lets hope the world can learn lessons from these retarded actions but $ pay and in uzbekistan that is all they got and in China they say that it will become much more polluted as it continues to grow.

Scary Scary!!

November 25, 2005 | Permalink | Comments (0)

ADVENTURES IN FREAKMANISTAN

Img_5953 Before we get started, lets discuss the numbers.

At the official bank rate, one US$ is worth approxiamtely 5000 Turkmen Som.

A the black market rate, one US$ is worth 24,000 Turkmen Som.

Needless to say, no one changes money at the bank.

Things enter another realm of strangeness when it comes time to fill up the car with gas: 1000 Turkmen Sum buys you 2 liters of gas. That's right 4 cents a liter and less than 2$ to fill a standard tank on car. Double tanks on cars are illegal but there is a major smuggling business to neighbouring Uzbekistan, land of the constant gas shortage.

Img_5989 Why you may ask do these strange realities exist; well the answers lie with the President of Turkmenistan, the self-proclaimed Father of the People and spiritual leader whose face or statue is never more than 5 meters away from you in any city in the country. President Nyazov or as he calls himself, Turkmenbashi the Father of the Turkmens, is running a crazy Stalinist personality cult that has parallels only in North Korea and he rules the country with no questions asked.

Turkmenistan lies above an incredible array of oil and natural gas and in exchange for giving his people no political freedoms, he gives them free electricity and gas in their houses, gas for their cars so cheap that the hybrid electric/gas cars that are starting to get popular in the West have no hope in hell of catching on here, and a myriad of crazy ass holidays including my favorite: “Drop of Water is a Grain of Gold” day, which for thos of you who are interested is April 6th. Others include “horse day”; they do have beautiful horses; “melon day”; “carpet day”; “bread day” and of course how could we forget “Good Neighbourliness day”.  Just to tweak things up for his people a little more, he re-named the months of the calendar and now April is named after his Mom!!!Img_5991

More on this later.

We had to take a tour for Turkmenistan because those are the rules and on our tour we were joined by an Englishmen named Gareth who came from Coventry (well actually a little village near coventry)  We arrived together at the border and after doing the regular 4 seperate stations to leave Uzbekistan we arrived at a gate that was locked. We waited and waited and then someone opened it and from the moment we arrived at the Turkmen post we knew things would be different. We were met by Angela the guide and did 1 hour of formalities and some major searching of the bags. After clearing customs she suggested that she hold on to the passorts and other documents we were given because "there will be a few checkpoints" and we loaded into the toughest car in the world, the Russian UAZ, and then went of to see the sights at Konye Urgench. At one time before the not so friendly visit of Ghenghis Khan and his boys an impressive city, the sights that do remain including the tallest minaret in the Islamic world are extremely impressive.Img_5920

We went for lunch and had the largest vodka shot (the smallest in the place) I have ever had (let alone for lunch) and then drunkenly got in the UAZ for the drive to Darvaza and the FLAMING GAS CRATER!!!!!!!! 

Img_5965 It must truly be seen to be believed but essentially this is a crater the size of a football pitch perhaps 50 meters deep that for the last X number of years (no one knows for sure as it was apparently an industrial accident and the details about it are a state secret held apparently now by the Russians) has been leaking natural gas and this natural gas has been BURNING. Think the gates of hell or Dante’s inferno and you have an idea of what this place is like. Other worldly, kindov freaky, and pretty damn cool. Apparently they dont know how to put it out, but seeing as that they officially do not acknowledge its existence, they do not seem eager to do anything about it. Img_5971

November 25, 2005 | Permalink | Comments (0)

WHAT IT MEANS TO BE CANADIAN (AND ITALIAN)

Throughout my life in China and my trip, people after finding out I was from Canada have had pretty standard replies.

In China the standard answer is: "Tudi da, renkou xiao" which means "large land, small population" and they usually know Vancouver.

Once we crossed into the ex Soviet lands that immediately changed to knowing Ottawa and immediately moving to Hockey. Gretzky was well know and with one taxi driver in Bishkek we spent the whole ride saying players names and numbers (For the hockey fans reading this he was particularly impressed with the Esposito brothers).

I got a more interesting (and heart-warming) impression from a Baha'i coppersmith artisan / guitar player who we met in a busted down old Madrassah (islamic school) that he was restoring and turning into a training center for local kids. He said that he knew of Canada as a place of tolerance and diversity where different peoples live together in peace and harmony and create something larger and better than there individual communities (my russian is not so good; there was a girl translating)

This made me particularly proud of my roots and as a further sign that the Bahai coppersmith is not alone in his thinking there is another plus for Canada in the recent announcement that the Aga Khan is funding a Global Center for the Study of Pluralism in Canada. According to the Aga Khan he choose Canada as the site of this center for many of the same reasons.

For Rossana, the story is a little less pretty; while she immediately gets the sports references for soccer, Baggio and Totti being well known; the next thing that people always say is "MAFIA".   

Our friends in the Tajikistan FBI gave us their official ranking; the baddest of the bad are the Russians, next come the Italians, and somewhere close are the Tajiks mainly cause of that drug thing I discussed a little earlier.

November 25, 2005 | Permalink | Comments (0)

THE JAPANESE

Ever since I heard that there was a market in Japan among grown men for school-girls underwear and that they were sold in vending machines I started to become interested in Japan. Not because I am a sick pig but because it is just really really strange. We got the chance to go there twice during our time in China and both trips were eye-opening, but they left me with many questions. In Samarkand and Bukhara we got some answers from a fellow traveler named Takahashi and it renewed my desire to go there. Takahashi is a very cool philosophy student with an interest in the world and a very funny manner of expressing himself. Topics of conversation included: At what point do western women stop being glamorous (described as gramorous with him outlining a super curvy female body with his hands) and become Mamma's (described once again with his hands but this time a more blob shape); His confusion over why people in Europe get naked at the beach (including his description of deciding to try the nude thing but realizing that it was the wrong kind of beach and being VERY embarassed); and detailing the do's and dont's and etiquette of the Love Hotels in Japan. His final story is also a job opportunity for anyone looking to get to Japan: Nowadays in Japan people getting married hire foreigners to dress up as priests to give a sermon as part of their wedding ceremonies. The best paid are people who can speak basic Japanese, but not good japanese because that is the most authentic Apparently it is big business. Unbeleivable.

Here is Takahashi contemplatingTakahashi_contemplating

November 25, 2005 | Permalink | Comments (0)

UZBEKISTAN

After a couple relaxing days in Dushanbe, we jumped in a car for the border with uzbekistan and the city of Termez which lies just on the border with Afghanistan, my brother's home for the last 3 years. Unfortunately it was the election in Afghanistan and so he had said that the security situation

did not allow for us to come. Luckily the election turned out well. Here is Roxy at the Afghan border - the red sign says no photos allowed but we had to: Afghan_border

Rossana_and_the_ladies Termez is an attractive city with some decent sights, the most hart-warming being a local mosque where people from the city and surroundings gather every friday to receive a free lunch donated by the rich businessmen of the city. Rossana got adopted by a group of old uzbek ladies who were tremendously nice people and all in all Termez was a worthwhile experience.

From Termez we started on the road to the sight-seeing cities of Uzbekistan - Shakrisabz, Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva. Before we got to the first city however we went through the most heavily check-pointed road in Uzbekistan through an area that used to be the grounds of the IMU or the Islamic Movement of Uzbekistan whose leader Juma Namangani was subsequently killed leading a Taleban battalion in Afghanistan post Sept 9-11. The government was still pretty edgy in the area stopping all cars but the troops were pretty good hearted and when I gave Rossana's passport to one of the army guys he broke out and started singing Italian songs, and then asked me if she was in the mafia. The drive itself is stunning but there is one slight problem; there is a major gas shortage in uzbekistan outside of the capital and all of the stations are closed so the driver turned of the car going down every hill and tied to touch the brakes as little as possible to keep the momentum. Some interesting moments needless to say. We arrived in Shakrisabz and immediately realized that a new phase of our trip had started; we had entered into the territory of Tamerlane, a man who created an empire in his lifetime that rivalled that of Alexander the Great 1500 years before. Lets just say by age 40 he and his armies controlled a swath of territory that stretched from the Mediterranean deep into present day india. In all the places he conquered he stole not only the artifacts but also the artisans and put them to work buidling his capital in Samarkand and refurbishing Shakrisabz. Shakrisabz was his birthplace and today only the gate remain of his palace but the gates and watch towers rise to 35 and 50 meters high respectively. The surrounding mosque's and madressah's are all stunning with that characteristic Timurid blue tile and it is a great introduction to what lies 150 KM up the road, the incredible Samarkand.

Registan Arriving in the Registan, Samarkand's main square, is an experience I will never forget. The sight of 3 stunning architectural wonders one more beautiful than the next in one square makes this a truly remarkable and world class site. Imagine having 3 tremendous European cathedrals in the same square and it will come close, but they would compete with each other. In the case of the Registan they complement each other. The cops there have a thriving business of allowing people to climb the minaret for a price (negotiable of course) and the view from the top is stunning but the feeling of my legs for the next 3 days was not so nice. Who knew that you needed to stretch before climbing a minaret?Tower

After getting blown away by the Registan we started on the other sites with one more impressive than the next. The Bibi Khanum Mosque (reportedly commisioned by Tamerlane's Chinese Princess wife) and Tamerlane's tomb are breath-taking and you can easily understand why the Tajiks were so pissed off when Stalin decided to place Samarkand (and Bukhara); which are traditionally Tajik cities; within the boundaries of Uzbekistan when he delineated the borders in the 1920's.

Here is a photo of Bukhara - i did not write an entry for it because I am trying to get a travel  article published about it. It is sublime.What_more_could_you_ask_for 

November 25, 2005 | Permalink | Comments (0)

TAJIKISTAN

Roadside_stop In Dushanbe I met an australian aid worker who told me the traffic was getting bad; at noon I stood on the main street and counted 3 cars in 1 minute....I guess it is all in relation.

Dushanbe is a very QUIET ex soviet republic capital that seems to have turned the corner towards stability and hopefully increased prosperity but latter might be difficult. As a major cross-roads on the Afghanistan-Europe drug smuggling route, the police and govt who are not on the take (or addicts themselves) are out-gunned and outmaned.  Europeans do not help the poor farmers of the area A by being heroin addicts and cokeheads (albeit not all europeans fall in this category) and B by their massive farming subsidies that make it not worthwhile for CA farmers from growing things other than poppies. Simplistic maybe but there is a grain (or a poppy seed) of truth here. When you are broke and hungry and someone offer you hard cash for a crop; what are you going to do? The afghans were abandoned by the world after the Soviets were kicked out and we saw what happened because of that. Hopefully the world does not abadon them this time around.

Mountain_pass Back to Tajikistan, the country is over 90% mountains and is 100% BEAUTIFUL. Azure blue mountain lakes; insane rock formations and majestic peaks, green eyed beautiful people some of whom live in places so remote that they seem from times past century and we did not even make it to the Pamir Highway, supposedly one of the the most beautiful places in the world. The Gorno Badakshan region is also on the next itinerary, as is a trip to the Wakhan corridor, a place of academic interest to me as I wrote a paper on the border disputes over the region and submitted it for publication but was REJECTED. It still stings.

November 25, 2005 | Permalink | Comments (0)

KATRINA - SOME THOUGHTS

KATRINA – MY FIRST TV DISASTER SINCE 9/11

Having been in Maine at my cousin's wedding during the day of the 9/11 attacks I watched on TV in horror as the 2 nd plane hit, and I could not believe it was real; it seemed a Holywood production but as we all know unfortunately it was not.

We had been planning on driving back to Canada that day, and after watching TV for a while we decided to leave early as we imagined that there would be a lock-down of the US borders. My mother and I got in the car and headed for the border, and once having crossed into Canada, got our first degree of separation from the tragedy. I continued to watch as events unfolded   over the next few days on both Canadian and American TV. On the 15th I returned as scheduled to China (Canadian airspace having re-opened on the 13th I believe) and got another degree of separation and a very different, and one must say in general much less sympathetic view, of the events from regular people. Many people were simply not that concerned or not interested in what happened and not a small number of people where of the opinion that the Americans deserved it.

I had been in China for 1 year up to that point, and I would stay there for 2.5 years before going back home and during that time I stopped watching TV, and in a sense my view of the world changed, or rather it did not develop as did the view of most people in the western world who watch news on the TV on a regular basis whether it be CNN, Fox, the BBC, the CBC, one of the big 3 American networks, or any of the others. We are influenced by what we watch and read and for the last 5 years I have gotten my news based on print media that I have chosen to read to the extent that those sources were not blocked by our Chinese friends who spend their time blocking websites.

But for Katrina I was in hotels that had CNN and BBC and thus Katrina was my first TV "Event" in a long time. I missed the TV version of events like the war in Afghanistan, Iraq, the London bombings and basically anything that has been TV news worthy in the last 4 years. Watching the coverage of Katrina on CNN and at one hotel on FOX, I must say that while I was shocked at what happened, and what happened to the people left behind, I was also pretty shocked at the TV coverage and how sensational and just plain PATHETIC it was; not only in its language (at one point the announcer said something that was incorrect and she said "sorry my bad" like it was some Adam Sandler movie) but also in its content and choice of stories. Instead of being useful and analytical it was like a soap opera. Not only that, a kind of fear and hysteria took over with the next tropical storm forming in the ocean seeming like the end of the world "the army is on full alert for incoming tropical storm....and we are keeping a close eye on the dangerous looking typhoon that is heading for Taiwain...".

I cannot believe that people watch that shit and the fact that some people use this as a primary means of information about events really scares me. I must make a point and say that the BBC coverage and the French TV coverage was in a class above what were broadcast on the American networks (and I am sure that I am not making any original observations here but Geraldo as a journalist – you have got to be kidding me. Someone should take him off the air – and I don't mean "take him off" in the sense of the "religious" broadcaster Pat Robertson when discussing the President of Venezuela…scary people)

Even though I could watch it on TV, I chose to go to an internet cafe and get a different perspective of the events and that is where I came across one of the most interesting articles I have read in a long time, which I have attached below. If anyone has any comments I would appreciate hearing them. (Big Matt as the only committed pro-Bush Republican that I know I would appreciate especially knowing your point of view on this if you do read it)   

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/RTGAM.20050910.wxcover10/BNStory/Front

The Flagging Empire

By PAUL WILLIAM ROBERTS

Saturday, September 10, 2005 Updated at 2:07 AM EDT

From Saturday's Globe and Mail

All the television pictures from New Orleans of water with people and houses under it certainly captured the world's attention. What the world attended to, however, wasn't so much the feeble efforts to relieve the city as the startling and unfamiliar sight of, as one of my Iraqi e-pen pals puts it, "so much terrible poverty in a country so much rich."

Many of the people being winched off rooftops did not even own television sets, let alone cars or telephones, so it is hardly surprising they had made no plans to escape until their shacks were under 20 feet of water. Another Iraqi pen pal was disturbed by the sight of the looters: "Some I see, they look not much human, like wild men." Some were also cops.

But, as a rehabilitated looter myself — I was in Baghdad two years ago when it fell to the invading Americans — I am in no position to judge a little petty pilfering, particularly when the perps have just lost everything they owned. All in all, the general feeling I derived from these ripples of Arab thought was that, in terms of peeling the veneer of society back to reveal what lurks beneath the codes of law and those who enforce them, the Iraqi capital comported itself a good deal better than New Orleans did.

At least under Saddam Hussein, everyone knew the government lied to them about everything all the time, and also that the media were merely a wing of the regime. Americans may just be waking up to a similar realization, since, thus far at least, no one has told them just how disastrous this disaster is going to be for the nation. You can always tell when the neocons are rattled by some event: They accuse anyone discussing the corporate or government role in it of playing politics with human tragedy. This, of course, is not something they would ever do.

An Egyptian friend of mine was stunned at the inadequacy of the U.S. government's immediate response to the flooding: "They have no trouble sending their armies to the outer reaches of the globe to invade or bomb, so why is it so hard to get help to their own people?" Poor as it is, he added, his country would have thrown all it had into the rescue of its citizens. Of course, being a military dictatorship, Egypt also would have found this a lot easier to do. But the fact remains that members of the U.S. Congress knew all about the disaster potential in New Orleans, so why didn't someone push the issue harder?

Clearly, in the Rumsfeldian system, the flooding of New Orleans was a "known known." CNN's "meteorologists" may not have realized the real danger lay in the sea surge after the storm — they concluded the city was safe the moment the winds had passed. But an article in the October, 2001, issue of Scientific American described the city as "a disaster waiting to happen." According to writer Mark Fischetti, "scientists at Louisiana State University, who have modelled hundreds of possible storm tracks on advanced computers, predict that more than 100,000 people could die." What were the chances that a hurricane strong enough to wreak such havoc would actually occur in the New Orleans area? Better than good, a question of "when," not "if," various authorities told Mr. Fischetti. Therefore, all the more puzzling to Scientific American was the most unscientific response this incipient crisis had received from America's rulers: "Thus far, however, Washington has turned down appeals for substantial aid." And by October, 2001, the government wasn't about to change its mind. The horror inflicted upon New York City and Washington four years ago tomorrow had pretty much guaranteed that for quite some time "substantial aid" would be going to something unscientific, though very American: the War on Terror and vengeance for 9/11.

In hindsight, the $14-billion price tag on the plan that had been drawn up for saving Louisiana's coastline and the Mississippi's delta now must look like a bargain to a Congress that has agreed to $50-billion in aid alone.

It is safe to say that relocating more than a million people, along with the loss of the nation's largest port, and the other economic consequences from Hurricane Katrina will bankrupt the United States. Or would, if anyone dared to call in the country's debts, which now exceed any number of dollars one can write meaningfully — particularly since no one seems to know just what a trillion is anyway. It's a known unknown. The unknown part is what happens to a nation that owes this much money: No other one has ever racked up such a tab. Even so, in the eyes of the world, the emperor stands naked. Monday's issue of London's The Independent noted: "We could be witnessing a significant moment in America. Hurricane Katrina has revealed some uncomfortable truths about the world's richest and most powerful nation. The catastrophe in New Orleans exposed shocking inequalities — both of wealth and race — and also the relative impotence of the federal authorities when faced with a large-scale disaster. Many Americans are beginning to ask just what sort of country they are living in. There is a sense that the struggle for the soul of America is gathering pace." There is also suddenly a sense that the American Empire is in decline, that the only successful wars it has ever waged are the ones against the environment and its own people.

There have been many other omens of such a decline this year. A few days before Katrina struck, for example, tiny Uzbekistan requested that the United States close its military base in the former Soviet republic and remove its troops within six months. This came just a month after a body called the Shanghai Co-operation Organization (SCO) asked for a timeline for the withdrawal of all U.S. troops in Central Asia. Originally composed of Russia, China, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, the SCO was created in 1996, admitted Uzbekistan in June, 2001, and more recently granted observer status to Pakistan and India . Thus, it embraces a quarter of the world's population and dominates the heartland of what Anglo-American strategists used to call the world island. Although the SCO was formed as an economic union, the joint Sino-Russian manoeuvres scheduled for later this year are beginning to make it look more and more like a military one.

So, a good measure of the blundering incompetence of the current administration in Washington is the fact that the SCO has achieved in less than five years what neither 50 years of the Cold War nor any previous U.S. government was able to manage: a nuclear-armed military alliance between Russia and China. It has never been a secret in the Pentagon that U.S. military commanders view China as their ultimate challenge and most dangerous foe since the collapse of the Soviet Union. Indeed, some economic analysts believe that the 2003 invasion of Iraq was prompted by very generous oil concessions given to both China and Russia in deals brokered under the old Baathist regime.

And as we have seen, the principles of American capitalism crumble swiftly in the face of a prospect such as that of China buying a majority share in one of the largest U.S. oil companies. A Chinese conglomerate was merely playing by the rules of a free market when, two months ago, it attempted to acquire a majority stake in Unocal Corp. Yet alarm bells sounded all over Capitol Hill, with voices declaring the proposed takeover of the company, founded 115 years ago as Union Oil of California, a "national security" issue. Probably to contain the damage such a glimpse of U.S. financial vulnerability would cause, Unocal was quickly sold off to Chevron, another U.S. oil conglomerate.

As well, Washington's ongoing beef with Hugo Chavez — summarized with irreducible precision by TV preacher Pat Robertson's recent call for the assassination of the Venezuelan President — chiefly concerns his sale of oil to China. As the world's fifth-largest oil exporter, Venezuela has chosen to do more business with China than it does with the United States although, after the Robertson fatwa, Mr. Chavez did offer to sell oil at reduced prices to America's poor. China's economic growth rates terrify both Japan, which has been persuaded to remilitarize, and America, which did the persuading.

The Central Intelligence Agency's National Intelligence Council predicts that China's gross domestic product will equal that of Britain this year, Germany in 2009, Japan in 2017 and the United States by 2042. However, Shahid Javed Burki, former vice-president of the World Bank's China Department and a former Pakistani finance minister, forecasts that China will probably have enough purchasing power to surpass the United States as the world's largest economy this year.

The inability of established powers to adjust to new centres of power emerging, or reemerging, has been the cause of all the bloodiest wars over the past two centuries. Besides losing control of its major companies, the problem of Chinese economic primacy, for the United States, rests in the possibility that China may gain control of the dollar.

Since president Richard Nixon took the dollar off the gold standard nearly 40 years ago, its value has been unofficially pegged to oil — hence the need for control of the world's largest oil fields. In order to keep the value of the yuan down — and hence keep their exports attractively cheap — the Chinese have been buying dollars and dollar bonds on a massive scale.

The worry is that a sudden decision to convert dollar holdings into, say, euros would send the U.S. currency into free fall on international markets. There are analysts who believe that Saddam Hussein's greatest mistake in his dealings with the United States was trying to persuade the Organization of Petroleum Exporting Countries to shift the oil price from dollars to euros. He had already started pricing Iraqi oil in euros and also had converted the huge fund held by the United Nations in the oil-for-food program into the European currency.

Before the invasion of Iraq, OPEC apparently was considering whether to start trading in dual currencies, and some economists believe that an announcement like this would send the value of a dollar falling by up to 40 per cent. By gaining control of the Iraqi oil fields —the world's second richest after Saudi Arabia — the United States has effectively prevented an assault on the dollar from that direction.

But U.S. attempts to drive up the value of the yuan, along with China's attempts to gain a foothold in the U.S. stock market, as well as its massive dollar holdings, would suggest that a full-scale economic war is already under way. Add to this President George W. Bush's insistence on the remilitarizing of a Japan already in severe decline and you have the next real war too.

Oil is not just big business; it is the biggest business there is. It not only fuels the engines of a modern industrial state, its byproducts are also a mainstay of the pharmaceutical, plastics and several other key industries that are the pillars of major Western economies. This is the sole reason for America's "interests" in the Persian Gulf region and for that area's "strategic importance."

Thus, it is curious that we are not more aware of the importance placed upon relatively recent discoveries of vast deposits of high-grade crude around the Caspian Sea. Indeed, a cynic might say the Bush administration used the September, 2001, attacks as an excuse to pursue its thwarted plan for a pipeline taking oil from the Caspian through Afghanistan to the Pakistani port of Karachi. When the Taliban were still in charge of Afghanistan, their representatives attended meetings, sometimes in the United States, on the proposed pipeline, upon which, furthermore, Pakistan's economic future to a large extent depends.

But the Taliban would not agree to the political and economic conditions the Americans felt were necessary, such as ending support for foreign terrorist organizations. It was, therefore, convenient at the very least for America to have a reasonably valid reason to attack the country and replace its regime with one led by Hamid Karzai, a former consultant with Unocal, the very company wishing to build the pipeline, and, of course, the one the Chinese tried to buy. China also has plans of its own to build a pipeline for Caspian Sea oil, heading through, yes, Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan.

The U.S. base in Uzbekistan was principally used for operations in Afghanistan, but it could easily have become a problem for the Chinese pipeline. China views the presence of U.S. military in Uzbekistan in much the same way as America viewed the al-Qaeda camps in Afghanistan. U.S. reasons for attacking Afghanistan were not, however, as valid as they perhaps seemed to be at the time.

After all, the Sept. 11 hijackers were from Egypt and, mostly, Saudi Arabia, not Afghanistan, which, though predominantly Muslim, is not an Arab country. The argument that the Taliban supported al-Qaeda ideologically and, perhaps, materially doesn't hold much water, either. Numerous other countries, or factions within them, including influential factions within Pakistan and Saudi Arabia, opposed aspects of U.S. imperialism in their regions and have been revealed as sources of al-Qaeda funding, so the singling out of Afghanistan was, at the very least, disingenuous.

The stated reasons for next attacking Iraq have been exposed for some time now as shameless lies and a gross violation of international laws, yet — according to the polls — many Americans are still under the impression it was the right thing to do. This is largely due to the inability of U.S. media to tackle the issue of both national and their own culpability in the commission of crimes against humanity. But the proper role of modern media in times of war is far from clear, particularly when so much of their normal function has been devoted to forms of propaganda.

To the real reasons for the attacks launched in revenge for 9/11, we also must add the nature of al-Qaeda itself. The term in Arabic means "the base," and refers to a database kept by the CIA of all the mujahedeen it trained to fight the Soviet Russians during their invasion of Afghanistan. One of these so-called "Afghan Arabs" was Osama bin Laden.

The intelligence agency was well aware that such a training program could easily blow back — and apparently it did. But rather than admit the attacks on the World Trade Center and Pentagon were carried out by people they had actually trained in the art of covert operations, the government threw up a smokescreen around everything. Why do that — and mislead everyone about the nature of al-Qaeda, which is at best a loose affiliation of extremists, not the vast cohesive entity the War on Terror wants us to believe?

"Leaders like wars because wars remind people they need leaders," Plato wrote 2,500 years ago. In the 16th century, Machiavelli said a leader was better off being feared by friends and enemies alike than he was being loved. More recently, George Orwell's terrifyingly prophetic Nineteen Eighty-Four posited a totalitarian global superpower engaged in perpetual war against a constantly changing enemy.

The principles behind a strong state and its government have never been a mystery, just as proponents of personal liberty and libertarian conservatives are agreed on the necessity for government to remain small and local, if people are to retain the freedoms granted by democratic constitutions. Canada and the Scandinavian countries are among the few that have managed to achieve anything approaching democracy's ideals for a peaceful egalitarian society. That we are not more aware of this is a sign of the complacency that precedes disaster. And such a disaster, if it comes, will arise from the consequences of bordering an imperial superpower undergoing the death throes of republicanism and heading steadily toward oligarchic totalitarianism.

The trouble with democracy is that no one has really believed it can work. Plato's ideal republic was scarcely egalitarian — but it did not pretend to be otherwise. Those entitled to a vote in it amounted to the Athenian oligarchy. Philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau, whose republican ideals infused both the American and French revolutions, stated openly that "barbarous peoples" whose countries were incapable of economic growth were doomed to remain impervious to politics themselves, let alone be capable of anything but despotic rule. "Freedom is not a fruit of every climate," he explained. He admitted that, "if there were a nation of Gods, it would govern itself democratically," but added that "government so perfect, is not suited to men."Rousseau's idea, ideals and even language echo in the documents of America's Founding Fathers.

Yet, when Thomas Jefferson drafted the original version of the Declaration of Independence, citing truths that were "self-evident," including that "all men were created equal and independent" (modified to just "equal" in the final version), he must surely have exempted the 187 slaves he owned from such equality and independence? And presumably none of those who signed the Declaration believed that America's native peoples enjoyed "certain inalienable rights," such as "life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness," since they were well aware of the genocide that had been under way since the 17th century and would eventually claim more than 10 million lives.

It is, furthermore, a safe assumption that no one in today's U.S. government thinks, as the Declaration's second paragraph states, it is a citizen's duty to rise up and overthrow any form of rule that becomes an impediment to "life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness."Similarly, the U.S. Constitution, so often cited as though relevant to contemporary America, is in fact a document very much limited to its place and time. Those Americans who read its opening, "We the people," today cannot help but hear it refer to a population of about 200 million, but to whom does it actually refer? This is, in fact, also the question being asked in Louisiana and Mississippi today. The textual evidence reveals that "we" can only refer to those who have signed the document —the representatives of a tiny land-owning elite, who may have questioned the rights of the British Crown, but never questioned their own. Nobody else seriously questioned them either, since it was assumed that politicians needed to be educated men, and, 240 years ago, education everywhere on Earth was a signal privilege of the few able to afford it.

"The president," says the Constitution, will be "Commander in Chief of the army, navy and militias." George Washington signed the document as the nation's first president. However, he was already commander in chief of the army, so this clause would not have bothered him unduly, nor did it make anyone else wonder if they were signing a recipe for military dictatorship down the road. The reference to "militias" reveals that the American standing army was minuscule back then, relying entirely on militias in the event of a serious threat. The "right to bear arms" clause also relates exclusively to the militias, and, combined, the two clauses show why there was no reason to fear a military coup.

Had the Founders been told this document would one day serve the greatest military power in history, or that there would come a day when handguns were the No. 1 cause of death for young men 18 to 30 years ago, they no doubt would have made considerable changes. As it was, though, they merely addressed their own situation in the most pragmatic manner possible. Problems with these founding documents arose only when generations of schoolchildren were educated to believe in their literal truth, a practice that has caused as much conflict in American society as that of believing in the Bible's literal truth has caused the world.

George Kennan, who died on March 17 at the age of 101, was, as head of the U.S. State Department's Policy Planning Staff, a chief architect of postwar foreign policy, largely responsible for the Cold War and for creating the Central Intelligence Agency. He was, all the same, a remarkably brilliant, insightful and clear-thinking observer of the world as it is, not the world as we'd like it to be. Social critic Noam Chomsky has unfairly called him an "incredible villain," quoting out of context from a very long, top-secret memorandum Mr. Kennan sent to the Secretary of State in 1948: "We have about 50 per cent of the world's wealth but only 6.3 per cent of its population. In this situation, we cannot fail to be the object of envy and resentment.

Our real task in the coming period is to devise a pattern of relationships which will permit us to maintain this position of disparity without positive detriment to our national security. To do so, we will have to dispense with all sentimentality and day-dreaming we need not deceive ourselves that we can afford today the luxury of altruism and world benefaction."

Prof. Chomsky fails to appreciate that Mr. Kennan also presents a rare opportunity to observe the thinking behind many of America's foreign-policy decisions since then because, in later life, he was openly apologetic about much of what he had done. He regarded atomic weapons as so dangerous that no nation ought to own them, and deplored the fact that the CIA, which had been designed, he said, solely to counter the threat of the Soviet spy agency, was allowed to continue after the Soviet Union collapsed.

On China, too, he was extraordinarily succinct, urging U.S. leaders to stop preaching to Beijing about democracy, since "even if they created a democracy, it wouldn't resemble ours." Something of an isolationist, Mr. Kennan believed, wherever possible, in living and letting live. He had determined that, to go to war with America using conventional weapons, a nation needed a heavy industry able to design and build some kind of powerful amphibious craft — since that alone would permit invasion. Only five countries, he stated confidently, could ever pose such a threat: Britain, Germany, Japan, Israel and Russia. Since the war, four have always been close allies — the Coalition of the Willing — and all of America's energies were focused on Soviet Russia, until it vanished into chaos during the Reagan presidency. (The five-enemies theory is said to be one reason for the Pentagon's shape.)

Mr. Kennan also did something else that is still immeasurably useful: He identified two distinct strains in U.S. political thinking that, at the risk of over-simplifying them, boil down basically to his viewpoint and that of those who oppose it. He likens his own thinking to that of the Founding Fathers: straightforward, pragmatic, focused on the job at hand. The opposition he characterizes as "day-dreamers," evangelists for the creed of American exceptionalism, who believe the United States is a fulfilment of prophecy, and that it thus has a mission to show the world the paths to freedom. He blames most of America's foreign-policy blunders on such misguided thinking, believing also that it was to blame for the decay of cities and society in general. Americans had been deprived of seeing the fruits of their tax dollars in the form of free health care and education — things that Europeans took for granted — since the money had been squandered on pointless foreign wars and imperial adventures.

These two strains have collided constantly, with one punishing the other whenever possible. The exceptionalists, however, have the edge because their terms of fiscal profligacy in overseas wars and weapons development can damage the economy beyond any simple repair. Mr. Kennan didn't like the invasion of Iraq ("political consequences disastrous . . . no plan to deal with the ensuing chaos inside Iraq"), but as far as he was concerned, things had really begun to fall apart during the Reagan presidency (1981-89). His five-enemies theory stressed, above all, keeping the potential enemies as friends. The collapse of Soviet Russia offered the possibility of bringing the sole existing enemy in from the cold, yet the opportunity was not seized wholeheartedly, and eventually it was lost.

Money that could have helped Russia rebuild its shattered economy and social structures was instead diverted into weapons development and other schemes designed to make the Chinese realize they were next. This forced Beijing to spend money it did not possess on an arms buildup of its own, and also may have inadvertently pushed China's economy into the overdrive that has made it little short of an economic miracle today.

Every sinologist in Washington, however, knows full well that China is not expansionist and has no history of imperial acquisition. After times of weakness, Chinese rulers have merely striven to regain the original boundaries of the traditional Chi'in state, the oldest political union on Earth.

This is why Washington is always careful not to deny the possibility that renegade Taiwan will one day be returned. It is why the annexation of Tibet was never seriously challenged. It is why Hong Kong was returned after the British lease ran out in 1999. Despite the rhetoric, historic patterns of behaviour are deeply respected in politics — a game China has played continuously for nearly 5,000 years, and at which it is a master. While it will generally not attack unless threatened, it will defend itself fiercely. That is what we can see happening now.

The Department of Homeland Security, along with the Patriot Act, has effectively suspended the rule of law in the United States — citizens can now be searched or arrested without a warrant, imprisoned without trial, tried by secret military tribunal, tortured or executed in secrecy. Their phones can be tapped, mail read, Internet monitored, and what they read at or borrow from the library can be analyzed for signs of deviancy. The guarantees of personal liberty in the Constitution have been trampled over. Between 30,000 and 40,000 people have been detained or harassed under the Patriot Act, and precious few charges involving actual terrorism have been laid as a result.

The fabric of American society has been torn to shreds without making Americans any safer. It is possible, too, that al-Qaeda may largely be a creation of the permanent government that lies behind the passing show and changing pageants of the one that's elected. For the Pentagon, CIA-FBI, and other non-elected institutions amount to a bureaucratic monolith that governs without consent, since it provides advisers to the elected rulers and information to the advisers — all of which can make the job of being president easy or impossible, depending on whom is in the White House. It is not what the Constitution envisaged.

Consider the following: In the mid-fifties, president Dwight D. Eisenhower was informed of a growing hostility toward America among ordinary Arab citizens across the Middle East. The cause of this hostility was a perception that the United States supported brutal, repressive regimes in the area and, hypocritically, cared nothing for the political aspirations of the people. This perception was hard to counter, the president learned, largely because it was accurate.

The CIA added that America was, however, following the correct course of action in supporting status quo regimes in the Middle East, since these were the only kind of governments that could reliably safeguard U.S. interests in the region. The "interests," of course, were oil. Flash forward to the 1970s and 1980s, where we find America now encouraging the repressive, brutal regimes it has been propping up to foster a resurgence of Islam, through building special religious universities and so on — the idea being to keep godless communism away from the oil with a religious renaissance. At the same time, the CIA was training Arab mujahedeen to fight the Soviets in Afghanistan. Bearing in mind that America also was humiliated by Iran's Islamic Revolution during same period, something seems out of place.

In his excellent 1998 book, Secrecy, the late senator Daniel Patrick Moynihan states that the collapse of Soviet Russia's social fabric, military, and economy was known among U.S. intelligence circles to be imminent as far back as the early seventies, and that this information was deliberately kept from the public, as well as from some presidents. He argues that money spent during the Reagan administration upon further weapons development and a continuance of the Cold War — which adds up to hundreds of billions — might have been spent on health care and education, were it not for the culture of secrecy prevailing in Washington. Bearing this in mind, too, why did the CIA even feel it was necessary to train Afghan Arabs to fight the Soviets?

Historically, the Afghans themselves have always been more than a match for any invader without outside help. With the Soviet Union on the brink of collapse, the expulsion of its troops from Afghanistan was just a matter of time. Put these anomalies together: Americans knew of Arab hostility in 1955 Yet they persisted in supporting hated regimes And even got them to promote Islam While training large numbers of devout Muslims in terrorist skills Even after being humiliated by a massive Islamic resurgence in Iran And experts on Islam had pointed out that the religion was populist in appeal and socialistic in nature.

Either you have an extraordinary jamboree of stupidity here, or you have the deliberate creation of a national demon to replace the defeated Soviet Red Peril, a new cause of public anxiety that justifies continued expenditure on arms, explains far-flung wars, and ultimately provides an excuse for the current terror and finances the invisible war against China. It has to be one or the other. Since the current administration contains a large number of the most reactionary elements from the old Reagan administration, my bet is on the latter explanation. As state papers from the Reagan years are gradually released under the Freedom of Information Act's 25-year limit, we may well find out some of the truth quite soon. Or we may not.

Paul William Roberts is the Toronto-based author of several books on the Middle East. His most recent, A War Against Truth: An Intimate Account of the Invasion of Iraq (Raincoast), has just appeared in paperback

September 19, 2005 | Permalink | Comments (1)

THE TP MYSTERY

When I was younger, perhaps 13 or 14 and in grade 7, I got into my mind that Germans were a gruff and somewhat unfriendly people. I know the impetus for this thought and she was my German teacher Frau “Something”- I forget her name. She disliked me and would not allow me to continue German the following and my for my part I did many things to piss her off. My impression of Germans remained the same for many years albeit I did not come across that many during that time. When I was 22, I moved to Germany for several months to be with Rossana who had won a scholarship to study at the University of Heidelberg, and I intended to use this trip as an opportunity to study the Germans and to try and understand what made them grumpy and gruff (and also I guess to see if my impression of them was wrong).

Well the first potential clue to the cause of their gruffness came to me the first time I did the old number 2 in the bathroom and went to grab a piece of German toilet paper. I know they are green friendly and environmentally conscious but there is a limit; you cannot wipe your ass with that rough stuff on a long-term basis and be a happy smiley person.

Or so I thought until I arrived in Tajikistan. More similar to industrial strength highly abrasive sand paper than to anything you would want to apply to any of your body parts least of which your ass, this is the stuff they use in this part of the world and yet the Tajiks are some of the nicest, kindest, most hospitable, smiley and seemingly happy people in the world. And this is despite the obvious hardships of their lives. Tajikistan was the poorest of the Soviet republics and went down the tubes faster than any of them following the break-up of the USSR in 1991. Civil war coupled with infrastructure break-down and brain drain meant it was the biggest loser in the downfall of the USSR; and yet what a people. The world could learn some manners from these people and I have certainly appreciated the short time that I have been here and hope to be able to come back again and again and hopefully help in the story of re-birth and growth of this fantastic country.

That being said, I will be bringing my own rolls of TP the next time I come to Tajikistan and my questions about the Germans remain (although I have to say that I keep this impression of the Germans more for fun as I now know many happy Germans although even the happy ones wonder why the German government donated 1 billion dollars to the Shanghai government to build a magnetic propulsion train from Pudong airport to the middle of Pudong!! Go figure?? Certainly Siemens and Thyssen Krupp, the main builders of the Maglev, did not mind the gesture!!)   

September 19, 2005 | Permalink | Comments (0)

TAJIKISTAN FBI

After clearing the rather gruff and imposing 3 seperate Uzbek border controls, we arrived to the Tajik side and what a change. "Welcome to Tajikistan!! You are from Italy - ciao bella, football, mafia... super friendly joking people. Rossana's name is famous in central asia (Alexander the Great took as one of his wives a beautiful sogdian princess, daughter of a famous local King he had just defeated, and her name was Rossana (or Roxana) and people always smile when they say it. My name, never an easy one, has now been changed to "Genri" which I kindov like.

After clearing the 3rd tajik border post (at the 2nd the guy asked us what was in our bag and we said nothing except "tourist" and he said "no problem" and sent us on our way) we were beginning the negotiations with the taxi drivers to take us to the city when one of the border police peeled out of the station stoped beside us and told us to get in the car...and thus began one of the highlights of the trip.

Alisher and his friend Barabodur were self described "tajikistan FBI" and they were driving us for free into town. They talked a little bit of english and just before dropping us off at a car to drive us to our destination, the city of Khojand, Alisher invited us to stay at his house for the night. We accepted and we drove around town picking up ingredients for 40 minutes, nan bread, meat, tomatoes, vodka and beer and then we arrived at his house, met his wife and beautiful baby daughter. Several relaxing hours later in which we talked, played some music and even watched a little italian TV - they had satellite - we all sat down outside to an incredible meal under a full moon lit night.

It was fantastic and sitting all together the next morning eating breakfast I realized that the warmth and hospitality of these people was something I will never forget, and was something to learn from. We made friends that night and I hope to be able to repay the hospitality some day to my friends in the Tajikistan FBI.

September 19, 2005 | Permalink | Comments (0)

AN UZBEK WEDDING IN KHOKAND

We left Ferghana in the direction of khojand with some stops in Margilan (very cool traditional silk factory - a lot of work) and to the famous pottery town of Rishdon, where we saw some of the most beautiful works we have ever seen. Img_5298

We arrived in khokand and we soon met Omin the driver. A barrel of a man driving a zhigouli, he took us all around town trying to find a homestay we had read about, only to find it was closed, and then somewhere else where we met Faya who got in the car and lead us to Masha's house; a delightful home and a delightful woman.

We dropped off our stuff and then Faya said she would show us to a restaurant; and not only did Omin drive us to the restaurant but he also joined us for dinner. With ever  improving Russian we cobbled together a conversation with Omin over dinner and then Faya came back to tell us that we were going to an Uzbek wedding.

We arrived to find a BIG party with women and men seperated at tables, a band CRANKING the tunes, and a lot of revelry. We were seated at the kindov head table with the VIP's, we were thanked on the microphone by the Father of the bride, we each made speeches of congratulations to the newlyweds in English and Italian, we had to dance together in front of everyone (I kissed Rossana which caused a big roar) and then we were forced to accept money as thanks from the bride and groom. Omin the driver and Faya (both of whom were not really invited to the wedding but everyone seems to be a big family here) led us all the way telling us what we should do until 2 english speakers were found who gave us a slightly more coherent explanantion of what was going on.Img_5299

It was a riot and great fun. Things like this I think could not happen in the west and it is too bad. The next day we spent with the 2 english speaking girls who were very cool, and where english majors at the local institute. Out-ward looking and interested in the world, although I am afraid to report they were fans of Brytney Spears. it was a great way to learn about life there.

In the afternoon we bid farewell to the wonderful charming Masha and made our way to the Tajik border in a beat up old Lada, the only way to travel!!

September 16, 2005 | Permalink | Comments (0)

DRIVING TO THE FERGHANA VALLEY

Img_5260 After securing the final required visa, for the crazy country of Turkmenistan, we decided to make our way to the Ferghana valley, the islamic heartland of the former Soviet Central Asian republics and the scene of a government slaughter of an unknown number of people earlier this year. We were a bit apprehensive about going for obvious reasons but we decided in the end to go but not to visit Andijan where the massacre happened. We were told that we would never get near there and also there is something strange about going as a touist to a place that was son recently a battle ground.

The adventure started early when our drivers decided 20 minutes in that we were going to switch cars and get in the car of their “brother” whom they seem to have met by yelling through the window and when that was not enough opening their doors and talking while driving down the highway.

“The Leech” as I dubbed our new driver, quickly established himself as a psycho driver but one who was very adept at talking his way through military checkpoints without having to pay bribes. He then started trying to pick up babes as he was driving (once again displaying the open door driving style that he seems to have mastered). The first new passenger was a middle age woman who elicited no response from the Leech but the next passenger, Girl # 1, immediately produced a change in body position for the Leech and he seemed to crane and contort his body towards (almost on) Girl number 1 while maintaining minimal attention to the road (having already been stopped and been given 2 fines this did not seem to bother him). Girl #1 seemed to react with intense fear and her whole body pressed as far up against the door and window and when we finally got stopped by the police for our 3rd fine, she jumped out and almost ran away. After another 20 minutes we picked up Girl #2 who, dressed more provocatively, was too much for the Leech to handle and he resorted to grabbing the girl’s tits at every opportunity he could which she would beat away until she too finally got out (and she paid him for the ride whereas in my books he probably should have paid her for the number of times he grabbed her babylons).

We arrived at the hotel and I soon realized why he did not care if he got so many traffic fines; when I went to pay him the 40 US$ we had agreed to with the original drivers in Tashkent, he flipped out and said we owed him 80 US$, having paid the original drivers 50 US$ to take us. He refused to accept the cash and started to put the bags back in the car to go back to Tashkent to find the guys and straighten this out. After a while we agreed to pay him an extra 10 dollars and the Leech took off back to Tashkent to start a fight (and I am sure hopefully to grab some tits along the way)!   

September 16, 2005 | Permalink | Comments (0)

LAKE SONG-KUL

Img_5124We met a nice German lady at the home stay we found in kochkor (with its super psychadelic shyrdak carpets) who was also heading up to the lake and we set off together through the CBT program, a great well run program that puts tourism dollars where they belong; in the pockets of the people. www.cbtkyrgyzstan.kg

The lake was GORGEOUS, the BA flight crew guys who arrived for the night were a riot, the stars were more brilliant and beautiful than I ever remember in my whole life, and the yurt was super cold.Img_5170_1
Wonderful hospitality, great food, and just enough run-ins with vodka drinking youths and horse back riding kumiss (fermented mare’s milk) drinking old Kyrgyz nomads made the experience truly one to remember and I definitely hope to go back one day.  Img_5169_1   

September 16, 2005 | Permalink | Comments (0)

BISHKEK - A CITY WITH NO MAN-HOLE COVERS

It was in Bishkek that I first realized that man-hole covers were valuable.

Valuable in a sense other than full-filling their function of keeping a lid on the cities sewers and preventing people from falling into such said sewers. Purposefully designed in a circular form to prevent them from falling into the stinky sewers below yet remaining easy to remove, these little suckers in Bishkek proved too easy to remove. The jury is still out on the reason for this but made out of a material that was either useful to guys melting it down and selling it for scrap or perhaps someone in the city just has an insatiable attraction to these circular beasts there does not appear to be a single one left in the city; and considering the fact that there are at least a few people walking around the city with a tipple of vodka in their blood, I guess there are bound to be a few people smelling like shit to accompany the fact that they feel like shit!!

Here is a giant statue of Lenin pointing the way!!Img_5123
Bishkek is also a leafy pleasant city surrounded by mountains and with rivers running all through it but it lacks the spark and the buzz that you feel in Almaty. We spoke with a very interesting Italian man who spends a large part of his time in Kyrgyzstan  and he gave us some very interesting insights into the republic and to the recent political upheavals that removed President Akayev, who had ruled since 1991. Displaying a cynicism that only Italians can when it comes to politics (because no country in western Europe is as much of a farce politically and has been governed by such a bunch of crooks and jokers of which Berlusconi represents perhaps the creme de la creme) he gave us the street level low-down of what happened and needless to say it is not exactly in line with the official version. One day I will expand on this but I need to think things through a bit more before I delve into this can of worms.

With the Iranian visa secured, we headed off in a car that would break down no fewer than 7 times with our fearless driver/mechanic Edik in the direction of Kochkor from which we intended to go Yurt camping up at  Song-Kul, a beautiful high mountain lake.

September 16, 2005 | Permalink | Comments (1)

ALMATY

Almaty was a surprise and pleasant one at that. I had studied Central Asian history and politics at university and my masters degree dissertation had focussed on parts of Almaty and Tashkent’s cityscape. Needless to say I should have gone there for the research, but then again I don’t think the city was teeming with BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, Casinos (including one called the “Deluxe Russian Roulette”, fancy bars and restaurants, etc.... 5 years ago. The OIL BOOM is on in kazkahstan and the people involved are getting very very rich with no one benefiting so much as the President Nursultan Nazerbayev. That being said, he has recently said (after the work of some investigative journalists proved that the rumors about his wealth – said to be the 6th richest man in the world -  were true) that his billions were being held in safe-keeping for all the Kazkah people and that he would at some point soon make a one time cash payment to all Kazkahs but until then he was keeping the billions in accounts under his name, and not in the name of the gvt of Kazakhstan, for “safe-keeping”. People appear to like him in general (and to his credit he has done some very good things for the country and appears to be heading for better things and a real attempt at good governance at least at local levels) and if you compare him to some of the other Central Asian leaders (and world leaders in general I guess) he looks like a prince.  The photo below is off the NURBANK and you can be pretty damn sure that President Nursultan puts the NUR in NURBANK. (Just imagine a giant BUSHBANK building in Washington) Img_5095

Blue skies, hot but not too hot, lush tree-lined streets with mountains rising in the background which means that apres-work skiing is an option, and I got thinking “what the hell have I been doing in Shanghai for the last 5 years.” There is definitely a better life out there.

We had a very interesting lunch with the Canadian Ambassador and her husband and spent several days lolling about the city prior to making our way to Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan, where we had an appointment to keep with the Iranian consulate to try and secure our visa.Img_5100

September 16, 2005 | Permalink | Comments (0)

A NEAR RIOT AT THE CHINA/KAZAKH BORDER

Our trip to the Kazkah border was nothing if not uneventful. We first made the mistake of going for the bus at 6:00 AM as the woman had told me the previous day, but what she neglected to mention was that she meant “unofficial” Xinjiang time, not Beijing time, which is 2 hours different. We went back at 8 and lo and behold the bus for the border town was ready to leave. We jumped aboard and 2 hours later we arrived at the town and the following conversation ensued:

Driver: “Where do you want to go?”

Us – thinking already that is was a weird question: “ We want to go to the border”

Driver – “Oh but the border is closed”

Us – “What do you mean the border is closed?”

Driver – “It is a 2 day national holiday in Kazakhstan and they close the border. It will open tomorrow only”

Us – “Don’t you think you could have mentioned that to us when we GOT ON THE BUS AND SAID WE WANTED TO GO TO THE BORDER?”

Driver – “Oh I just figured you were coming here for tourism. Many people come here to look at the border crossing b/c it was the first to open to trade between our 2 countries so people come to take pictures”

Maybe he was just making it up because I was starting to look very angry and he was getting afraid but then again, I can actually almost see it being true and State Owned Companies taking their employees there on company outings.

Apart from that, what country closes their borders for a national celebration? I mean imagine shutting down the continental US for the 4th of July? We chalked it up for experience and just explained it to ourselves as a taste of some of the craziness that the Central Asian republics are famous for, even before crossing the border.

So we retreated from the border and spent the night in a little hotel that had Russian TV (mainly porn and dubbed bad american cop shows, actually) and contemplated our trip to date and what lay ahead.

We arrived that border an hour before the opening time to line up, and we were greeted with a surging mass or people with INSANE amounts of Chinese made goods: TV’s, rice cookers, computers, shoes,fans, building materials; you name it and they had it if they could squeeze it through the 1 meter wide by 2 meter high opening in the metal fence that represented the border crossing access point. Some of the objects I realized would never fit through and I saw later the reason for that – they were simply lifted out of the crowd and thrown over the fence and picked up on the other side. Some people also resorted to throwing themselves over much to the dismay of the overwhelmed Chinese border guards.  I only wish I had a video camera!!!

As the opening hour approached more people were streaming in and Rossana started panicking b/c she hates crowds. The minute the gate opened and the massive rush started, she started trying with all her might to get away. I stayed trying to hold my ground for a while but later gave up when Rossana made it clear that there was no way on earth she was coming. I wanted to yell "It is only Kazakshtan it will still be there this afternoon" to the Svetlanas attempting to climb the fence in their new mini skirts, 3 inch stiletto heels and massive Chinese suticases and to the Russian, Kazakh and Uzbek traders who were so loaded down that they all seem to be attempting to beat the World Electronic Appliance Weightlifting record. Nothing I or anyone else said or did could stop these people; they wanted to get to kazakhstan and were willing to fight to do it.

Rossana's reaction turned out to be a blessing in disguise.

She sweet talked a cop, who talked to someone in customs, who talked to the PLA border commander who came to talk to us. With near tears in her eyes, my wife pulled an Oscar performance in Chinese, saying we had been stuck at the border for 2 days and we had a flight tomorrow in Almaty.

Not only did the man walk us around the line and in, he then skipped the line inside the customs building, got one of his men to fill out our customs departure card and then removed 2 people from a bus about to drive to the Kazakh border, put us on it and told the driver how much we would pay (slightly below what he was hoping I guessed from the look on his face). It was unbelievable. We had been offered to be taken to the front of the line by touts for 600 RMB a person but this was magic.


We made quick work of the kazakh customs and then, boom, it felt like we were in Europe, well at least a soviet Europe. A sea of zhigouli's, lada's moskvich and BMW and mercedes awaited us. We found Anatoly and his mack daddy BMW and cruised towards Almaty.
By 3:00 PM we were in another world sipping beer in the garden of the deluxe Hotel Dostyk in Almaty; a treat we had decided to give ourself b/c it was our second wedding anniversary. I can guarantee that we will never have one quite like that again.

September 16, 2005 in CHINA / KITTAI (AS THE RUSSIAN SAY) | Permalink | Comments (1)

YINING, A DRUNK ASIAN WTO

In kuqa we decided to change plans a bit and rather than travel another 800 KM to Kashgar to catch the famous Sunday market we decided against it and went straight to urumqi and then from there straight on to Yining at the north-west corner of Xinjiang from where we would cross into Kazakhstan; The majority of the drive is stunningly beautiful mountains, valleys, forests, lakes, rolling planes; it is reason enough to visit the place and that is without even counting the city of Yining; what a crazy place; booming yet very pleasantly relaxing at the same time. Img_5061

A kindov asian united nations with kazkahs, Kyrgyz, Uygurs, Uzbeks, Mongolians, Chinese, Russians…all speaking way to many languages and assembled for the thing that china does best – trade. This boom town was rocking and rolling in a mainly vodka (but we did notice traces of baijiu flowing through the air) fuelled stupour when we arrived and the xiao jie’s at the restaurant where we were eating politely asked us to move for fear that the 4 drunkards behind us would fall on us and start a fight. When the manager annouced that she would not sell them any more booze we quickly headed for the door.

The next day we went to a tea house beside the Yili River and drank the local made delicious piwa honey beer, listen to some Uyghur men play music, and watched the river flow by under gorgeous blue skies and glorious mountains in the background. On the subject of the Yili River  it is flowing a bit less these days b/c China is damming and diverting the river with the result that the lake in Kazakstan (I forget the name) into which the river flows has lost over 200,000 sq.m of surface in the last few years and it is shaping up to be another ecological disaster like the one that befell the Aral Sea in Uzbekistan. It seems Kazakhstan lacks the political power (or will?) to stop China. And the environment loses another one in the face of China’s insatiable appetite for electrical power!!

September 16, 2005 | Permalink | Comments (0)

AIMING FOR THE KUQ...A

Img_4987In Dunhuang we said our good-byes to Elena who was heading back to Shanghai and got on a bus to Turfan, the second lowest point in the world after the dead sea which just happens to be home to some crap and not so crap tourist trap sites, a beautiful minaret that began to give us an idea of the Islamic architectural marvels that would await us on our trip, and the best wines produced in China. Needless to say we chose a bottle of the finest and wiled away several hours of the afternoon under a canopy of grape vines.Img_5009

(P.S. Not only do they have the wine but they have unbelievable grapes with the “mare’s nipple” grapes being out of this world)

 

From turfan we made our way by train (my oh my was it pleasant to be on the tracks again after almost a month of CRAP roads) in the direction of Kashgar and stopped at the city of Kuqa for their famous Thursday bazaar and that is where I came to a realization; these bazaars all sell in general basically the same items with selection basically meaning there are more people to choose the same stuff from and the real value for the tourist / observer being watching the colourful crazy cats that make their way to these markets and to find the occasional gems (like the 100 shish-kebab skewers we got for 15 RMB)– Kuqa has its fair share of cool cats and has some pleasant historical sites to boot.Img_5027

September 16, 2005 in CHINA / KITTAI (AS THE RUSSIAN SAY) | Permalink | Comments (0)

ANXI TO DUNHUANG

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The Yulin Grottoes at Anxi were one of the highlights of my entire time in China, and I highly recommend this site to anyone traveling in the region. Overshadowed by their most famous counterparts down the road in Dunhuang, these caves, of which approximately 10 are open, are in general very seldom visited but are every bit as beautiful as the Dunhuang caves and the experience is much more gratifying.

 

Sitting by the Yuling river after having seen the caves with no other tourists around we ran into a local family having a picnic and they invited us to join them. The grand-mother was originally from Zhejiang and told us some stories of coming to Shanghai back in the wild 20’s before the family was sent west during later years of turmoil in China. A charming woman who really warmed my heart to

China in a way that few people have in a while.

Img_4905

 

As we left the caves and started the drive through the beautiful lunar like landscape I suddenly got the urge to drive and so for my first time in china I got behind the wheel and took off squealing (well actually I stalled first which did not give our driver much confidence) down the highway. After leaving the lunar landscape we came upon this beautiful lush valley which was a nature reserve and full of bushes that were blooming these incredible purple flowers.Img_4935

 

Next stop was dunhuang which was definitely worth the visit but watching the sun set from atop a 2000 meter high sand dune and then running at full speed barefoot down the hill was the real highlight and not the dunhuang caves, although they are definitely impressive. That such vivid colors and images can survive for so many hundreds of years (minus the ones hacked out of the walls by early 20th century foreigners and carted back to  Britain, France, Germany , and Japan  -listed in  order of the amount of stuff they stole) is truly truly incredible.

September 16, 2005 in CHINA / KITTAI (AS THE RUSSIAN SAY) | Permalink | Comments (0)

XIAHE TO ZHA YU GUAN

After Tongren we headed down to Xiahe where we met up with our friend Annouk and the french man she had met it Dunhuang who had ridden his motorcylce from France to China following the silk road. Interesting guy. This was the 2nd time I been in Xiahe having gone there in 1997 and there was a tremendous change; from what I remember as a dirt road town there has sprung up a large city although it is still dominated by the large temple and Buddhist university complex.

It was certainly a different experience than the last time and I felt slightly older and more responsible than the last time I had been there with my cousin and two friends. Our trip had bordered on ridiculous during parts of our adventure but this time things were a little more calm and collected.

We ran into a group of French school children there on a trip which also made me realize that the place had become a bit more calm and collected and part of the larger world whereas when we had been there in 1997 it seemed the most distant and different  place I had ever been.

We left the following morning on a bus ride which was short and painful and we met a strange french man (many french people who knows why??) who was a master in astrology. He guessed our signs, told us some things about ourselves and when we arrived in Lanzhou, he mysteriously disappeared into thin air….well not really but we went our seperate ways with him heading to "Pekin" and us westwards towards western gansu and xinjiang.

Lanzhou has some pleasant people and places (including the old town antique market) but none of them can be found at the bus station, and certainly not among the touts getting people for the Zhangye buses. After getting pissed off, I managed to move us off the zhangye bus (with the help of the station chief) and onto the Zha yu guan sleeper bus.

Zha yu guan is according to the official chinese tourism literature the westernmost part of the great wall after which you passed into the badlands; in fact the wall goes quite a bit further but we don’t need to get into that. There is a major fort / tourist attraction (including people who are set up for archery where you can shoot from the ramparts at “enemy” dummies set up on the ground below – I managed to nail the dummy in the middle of the head thus earning myself a free shot). All in all it and the nearby valley are nice enough but NOT the be all and end all.

Our Zha Yu Guan adventure did not end there however; we headed for a slightly off the beaten track set of Buddhist caves (The Wenshushan caves) and we ended up in a full blown argument with a colonel in the PLA (Peoples Liberation Army) because the place we wanted to visit just happens to be situated overlooking a PLA base in a military district. I don’t know about you but it seems to me not so bright an idea to situate a military base below a tourist site that the powers that be (and I would think that the army runs the tourist site) have decided to renovate and improve. You can't take pictures and you need a PLA guide to walk the sites; well at least foreigners need the PLA guide b/c all chinese are loyal to the PLA including the kindov Chinese looking TAIWANESE!!! Anyways enough on this subject.

Having come to an agreement with the PLA, the ticket people were the next challenge. They tried to rip us off on the ticket price. First it was 5 RMB a ticket and after a phone call to the "manager" it was 20 RMB each which after some arguments, threats of calls to the national and provincial tourism association and a guarantee that I would do everything in my power to make sure that no one ever again set foot in their attraction the price miraculously dropped back down to 5 RMB (it was the principle more than anything and after having argued for 20 minutes with a PLA colonel I felt I could handle the ticket xiaojie).

Having goten the tickets in hand and with PLA Private Wang from zhejiang in tow we went to explore the site only to find out that it SUCKED. It had been recently restored and the caves that we really wanted to see, the ones with the 1500 year old arhat frescoes, were locked and they did not know where the key was. AAAAHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!

September 15, 2005 in CHINA / KITTAI (AS THE RUSSIAN SAY) | Permalink | Comments (0)

HUFFING THE SNUFF IN TONGREN

Well our experience in tongren was probably the most un-buddhist or just simply childish ridiculous of any temple we went to. Woman were not allowed into some of the temples (because it was a time of meditation and contemplation for the monks and I guess there is a buddhist adam and eve eating the apple temptation thing) and in general where they were allowed the temples were locked and it was a bit of a sham.

As we walked around the temples "looking for the Buddha" as we were reduced to saying we happened upon two old men who were repainting one of the temples and in specific the masks that they use in some of the ceremonies. I arrived before the ladies and I noticed that the men appeared a  bit out of it, and I quickly realized why; they were snorting snuff ( a kind of tobacco for those of you who do not know what it is) and large quantities of it from what I gathered.

Having not snorted snuff in a long time and being in a slightly giddy mood I kindly asked the gentlemen if I could partake in some of the festivities and we all (the ladies had arrived) proceeded to huff (Jeremy I steal the huff word from you b/c you definitely popularized it with the cream charger...oh yeah!!) the snuff with the old men, after which they started pulling out the masks and putting them on us to take pictures and the revelry continued until some monks arrived and put us all in our places.

We merrily went on our way and tongren remains one of my favorite temples although we did not really see any of it.

September 15, 2005 | Permalink | Comments (0)

THE TIBETAN DOCTOR

We awoke the next morning to the sounds of a message on Rossana's cell phone - it was from elena and it was oficially time to call the doctor.
We asked the hotel to help find us a doctor and within 5 minutes the doctor had arrived; a tibetan man who upon first look appeared more of a butcher than a doctor; Rossana was the translator and within minutes the decision was made to operate; within one hour the surgery was over (done in the comfort of the hotel bedroom) and Rossana became trained as a nurse assistant (to apply the medicine later); and within hours Elena was feeling better. She was a tremendous trooper through this and very very brave.

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We stayed for a few days to let Elena heal and saw some gorgeous temples, another wonderful temple festival to celebrate the opening of a Buddhist training school, and one of those large blue chinese work horse trucks parked in the middle of a large rushing river. There were no roads anywhere near where the truck was and so I am remain confused how exactly it got there. There were also people on top of the truck but they appeared to be having fun and waved when I took a picture from across the river bank.Img_4850

On the subject of the blue Dong Feng work trucks (Eastern Wind for you non chinese speakers out there) I am happy to annouce they appear to have decided on a bit of innovation and after 50 odd years of producing them only in baby blue they have ventured in a new bold direction...purple. keep your eyes open for these beauties.

So we left Yushu for the capital of Qinghai and the road was terrible  even by northern sichuan standards. 700 kilometers of continuous road construction all of it in states of terrible abandon. Apparently it should be finished within the next 2 years. For any of you who value your tailbones and perhaps your temporary sanity I strongly suggest waiting until this road work is over before venturing to these parts. That being said I highly recommend this part of China.

September 15, 2005 | Permalink | Comments (0)

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